Much
like the anticipation for the arrival of the first big snowfall, for
weeks we have been “patiently” waiting to arrive to the Southern
Ocean—to sail in the fast, heavy conditions with the Albatross. Now
it’s a reality and it’s like a dream come true for all of us. Coupled
with the excitement of gaining hour by hour on the leading boats, we’ve
been like little kids playing in the snow. Today, we’ve been on cloud
nine.
The
waves out here are, as promised, relentless. Over and over again, cold
waves crash over the bow, jumping over the cabin top, crashing into the
cockpit, and bouncing off winches and sailors before heading back off
the boat. Sometimes, when the foam splashes up it reaches five feet in
the air. There’s water everywhere.
We’re
sailing with one of our biggest sails, the A3. We’re sailing in good
pressure, keeping the boat averaging speeds of 19 knots. We’re surfing
over and down waves. It’s simply amazing to be outside, sailing amongst
the Albatross and other sea birds.
Outside
it’s hard not to smile. Liz, Carolijn, Abby, and Sam are all smiles as
we “send it” east (Send it: hand off the E-brake, pedal to the metal,
full throttle sailing—fast, fast, fast). The veterans are happy to be
back here and their “Southern Ocean fever” is incredibly contagious.
We’re
all hooting and hollering when the helms woman hits performance
numbers, surfs down a epic wave, or gets the boat going up at top speed.
Every fifteen minutes, we’re egging Annie on for a new “wind” song.
The “let’s catch ‘em” mentality is at 100% and building.
Down
below it’s a life is very different from the Doldrums. It’s cold and
wet—acceptable conditions for outside but sometimes a little more
challenging to cope with inside. “I can’t get warm in my bunk,” Sally
said. if you can’t get warm, it’s incredibly challenging to sleep.
Bailing
water might actually be one of the more challenging activities on board
at the moment. As you crouch down, sponging up the puddles of cold
water, you’re constantly praying for the boat to not catch a super fast
wave. One time, we did catch a super fast wave and I ended up doing a
half summersault in the bilge—physics at its most humorous! The
ultimate fear is losing the bucket of cold water—either on yourself or
back in the “dry” bilge. Plus, before you can finish bailing out the
puddles of cold water, more water has found it’s way in the boat from
the open hatch or the soaked wet weather gear.
Nonetheless,
we continue to bail out the water and take all necessary precautions
because this is the best sailing we’ve seen. The wind, the waves, the
relentless water are a part of the epic experience of sailing here. Like
that first really good snow day, the Southern Ocean is pure—there’s no
traffic and hardly any land, only birds and steady breeze. You feel
like you’re the only ones in the world out here.
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